Setting up a Marine Tank
Marine fish are some of the most beautiful in the world, and can create a sense of well-being and calm in a room. When taking on a marine tank, it is important to understand how different it is in many ways to keeping freshwater fish. Regulating the chemical balance of your tank is extremely important, therefore it is imperative to set up the tank correctly, for the benefit of your fish. Whilst marine tanks are more difficult to keep, they are very rewarding and, if set up and maintained correctly, they can flourish under anybody's care. I have many many different species in my marine tank, but almost everything is animal. Even the corals and polyps and cucumbers are all animal, and as such they require very different treatment to the plants in a freshwater tank.
I set up my first marine tank nearly three years ago, and I was unaware of the potential problems which can occur if tap water is used to set up the tank. Tap water varies in hardness and limescale content all over the world, so it is important to know what levels your water contains. This can be achieved with many of the chemical test packets now available, and I would highly recommend reading through these pages to ensure the best success.
I aim to lay out in simple terms the best way to set up your tank, and hope that you may avoid some of the common beginners mistakes. Please don't be discouraged if it seems like a lot to take in. Fish-keeping has, in my experience, a high learning curve initially, but as you familiarize yourself with the processes it will become almost second nature.
To set up your marine tank you can follow the steps for setting up a freshwater tank as a general rule. I'm going to break down the components you need to think about when setting up a marine tank. They are:
Without any one of these components, your tank will not survive.
Lighting:
Lighting requirements for a marine tank can be quite different to those for a freshwater tank. Many corals and invertebrates need a specific amount of light, and a blue light is usually included to bring out the colours of your fish. How much light you require depends entirely upon what you wish to keep. If your tank is already set up, then you may need to add more light if there is something specific you want to add to the tank. Lighting can be attached to a hood on the top of your tank, or you may wish to suspend a light from the ceiling over the top of you tank. This method allows you to look into the top of the tank and get another view of your fish.
Filtration:
Similar to freshwater tanks, marine filtration can be either external or internal. Many marine tanks can be bought as a package with all the filtration already set up. However, talk to your local fish shop about what you want to keep. For example, many people, myself included, would recommend changing your internal chemical filtration for a biological method, such as a protein skimmer. This is very beneficial because it removes a high percentage of waste from the tank. However, it is worth noting that some people dislike this method because the protein skimmer cannot distinguish between the good and bad biological elements of the water in your tank. If you want to keep corals, it may be essential for you to have a protein skimmer.
If you have the opportunity to discuss this with someone at your local store, you might be able to exchange the internal filtration for a protein skimmer as part of the package price. This would save you the trouble of making changes later on. In a marine tank, you need to consider the chemical balance carefully. Your filtration will play an important role in this, so take the time to make an informed decision. it's worth it in the long run!
Heating:
You can essentially follow the rules listed in the freshwater set-up page for heating your tank. It is important to note that for most marine aquariums, you want to maintain the temperature at a stable 24 - 26 degrees Celsius. A thermostat can achieve this, and you can adjust the setting if necessary. In the summer, if your tank is getting too hot, there are cooling devices which you can fit to your tank, or floating bottles of ice is another free and effective tip for keeping the temperature stable.
Substrate:
In a marine aquarium most people use sand. When I set up my own marine tank, I was advised to buy some sand from the Caribbean. At first I was horrified to think that this was possible, and was concerned about the effect to the environment. However, whilst the sand may come from the beach, none of the fish or invertebrates you will buy will come from the sea. They are all bred in captivity to ensure our coral reefs are not destroyed. The advantage of using this real sand is that you only buy it once, upon set-up. After that, the sand acts as a part of the filtration, and contains natural biological elements which are beneficial for everything in the tank. In addition, using live rock ( which is farmed) also adds natural filtration, as the rock is porous and filters the water as it is pushed through. Both of these are a great step towards avoiding using any kind of chemical filtration in your tank. Where possible, I prefer to create the most natural environment possible for my fish, and I believe this is a good start.
Water:
Getting the water right for your tank should be first and foremost in your mind. If the water you use to set up is chemically imbalanced, you will be starting on the back foot, and will encounter problems with algal blooms, unhealthy fish and invertebrates and cloudy water. None of these are good for your tank, and can be difficult to correct. So, you need to know what kind of tap water you have at home. Is it hard or soft? Have you tested it with a nitrate kit? These are not particularly expensive and usually you get about 60 tests in each kit, so they last a long time. If your water contains high levels of nitrates, this will be terrible for your tank. Nitrates should ideally be 25ppm (parts per million) or less (ideally 0). The presence of high nitrates can signify high levels of nitrites and ammonia, which can be fatal for your livestock.
So, test your water. I live in London and my water is not suitable, so I have a 'reverse osmosis unit', which attaches to the mains water and allows you to make water that has been filtered of all the hard elements and nitrates at home. Using this method, you can guarantee you are starting out with the best water quality possible. It is also necessary to test the Ph of your water, to make sure it is suitable for the fish you want to keep. Ph can vary depending on which species you have, but the usual range for a marine tank is between 8 - 8.4. Because you will be adding salt to the water, the hardness is not really an issue for marine aquariums. The main thing to remember with the Ph is that, even if it's not at the right level, it's better for your fish to be stable. If the Ph is consistently wrong, it will do less harm than if you suddenly try to change it. Fish get stressed by big changes, so try to remember that alterations must be gradual.
Salt levels in marine aquariums can be checked with a hydrometer. This measures the density of the water. Whichever hydrometer you use, it will have a marked 'safety zone', which shows you within which levels your salt content should be. Certain corals prefer a saltier concentration, but this can lead to and increase in saltwater ich, which affects your fish. try to keep the density within the safety zone, and your water will be ok. When you replace water in the tank, it is best to prepare it to the same temperature and density of the tank, and aerate it for 24 hours before adding it to the tank. This ensures the smallest possible change for the fish and a stable water quality.
