Freshwater Set-up
There are many different species of freshwater fish, and they fit into three categories; tropical freshwater, cold freshwater and brackish, which is slightly salty. Most people when starting out with fish-keeping begin with goldfish, as they are incredibly easy to keep and a joyful introduction to keeping fish at home. I would like to introduce you to the best way to set up your first freshwater tank.
When setting up a freshwater tank there are certain elements which must be considered. they are:
1) Lighting
Lighting is necessary in an aquarium to stimulate plant growth and for the health of the fish. Plants growing under water require more light than land plants because the strength of the light diminishes as it goes through the water. Many tropical plants are used to long hours of sunlight, so in order for them to survive and flourish in your tank, you need to create an environment as close as possible to the real thing. This will ensure both your fish and plants stay healthy.
As a general rule, an aquarium that is up to 38cm deep should have at least 60 watts of tungsten light or 20 watts of fluorescent light for each 30cm of tank length, on the basis of providing 10 - 15 hours of light per day. You can use dimmer switches and timers to reduce the light at the end of the day. After approximately 8 - 10 hours, your plants will have had enough strong light for the day, and a lower level of light would be acceptable for the fish. Your fish will also be much happier if they are not plunged into immediate darkness at the end of the day, although it won't do them any harm! Nocturnal fish may also emerge earlier if they sense dusk.
If you go into your local pet store, you can talk to an expert about the different types of lighting available. Some fish look better under a certain part of the spectrum, so the assistant could advise you on the best for your choice of fish. For example, a typical bulb for tropical freshwater would be slightly pink. Adding reflectors to your lights will intensify the amount of light going into your tank, and ensure than none is wasted. Lighting is also more effective if pointed slightly towards the rear of the tank, to ensure shadows are cast away from you as you look in.
2) Filtration and Aeration
Filtration often goes hand-in-hand with aeration. There are several different types of filtration on the market. Aeration can be achieved with an air stone, a small block of porous material which breaks up the airflow into tiny bubbles. In my experience, if keeping goldfish, these airstones can need cleaning regularly, as goldfish are can create a lot of waste. Usually an air pump would be best. This creates a constant stream of bubbles, which aids the regulation of water temperature through the tank, as well as increasing the surface area of the water. It is also necessary for the fish to breathe! This is important to think about when stocking your tank - you need to make sure you have the correct number of fish so that they have enough oxygen and space.
Filtration comes in two common forms: Internal and external. Whichever you choose, this is an essential element of your tank. If you are not able to remove the waste created by the fish, your water quality will decrease rapidly and things will begin to die. The removal of waste is also important to allow light through the whole tank, and to prevent algae from taking over. If the quality of your water decreases, good filtration can also be used to remove any harmful elements such as nitrates, which if left unchecked can create ammonia which is deadly for your tank.
So, when choosing your filtration, you need to think about how much waste your fish might create ( for example, as I mentioned earlier, goldfish can require a lot of filtration as they are quite messy fish). You also need to consider how big your tank is. If you only have a small bowl or tank, external filtration would be better for you as it saves using up any of the fishes' space in the aquarium. In a larger tank, internal filtration will usually be more efficient, and better for your fish.
3) Substrate
Your choice of substrate should take into account the types of fish you want to keep. Most people tend to use gravel for a freshwater tank, and especially for goldfish. Nowadays you can buy gravel in all sorts of colours and sizes, allowing you to create exactly the look you want for your aquarium. The advantages of using gravel are that it's less likely to block filters, and it is relatively easy to clean. Undergravel filters and airstones cannot be used with sand as it tends to block everything up. However, you can have sand in a freshwater aquarium, but if you are starting out I would recommend gravel, especially if you have an under gravel filter.
4) Heat
Heating your tank depends on which fish you decide to stock. Heating uses little energy and doesn't cost a lot, but it allows you to create a true tropical temperature (usually about 24 Celsius). This is done using a thermostat-controlled heater, which sits inside your tank and clicks in whenever the water drops below the temperature you have chosen. Once you have set this up, you can relax a little in the knowledge that the temperature in the tank will remain stable. For many types of fish, stability is the key to success. If you have the right temperature, lighting, filtration etc, your tank will be stable and your fish happy. Sudden changes of any of these elements can be harmful to your fish, as they can become stressed and prone to sickness.
5) Plants
Plants are completely optional in a tank, and if you're just starting out then it might be advisable just to have one or two, unless you want to have a fully planted aquarium. Plants are beneficial for several reasons. Through photosynthesis, they help to remove carbon dioxide and oxygenate your tank. Some types serve as a snack to nibble on for smaller fishes, and if you have goldfish, watch out! They can destroy your plants if it's a kind they particularly like. I think if you have plants with goldfish then you need to accept at the start that they will get eaten! However, in a tropical tank, many plants can create shade and protection (this can be invaluable if you are breeding fish), prevent too much algae growth, and add a whole new look to your tank. You can of course always buy artificial plants if you don't want to do too much work!
And finally....
6) Fish
Once your tank has been properly set up and has been given the chance to cycle, you can start to add fish to you new aquarium. When choosing your fish, it is important to choose types that are good at living in a community, and to choose the correct number of fish. Adding many fish immediately will upset the balance of your tank and could cause major problems. It's best to add a few at a time over a few weeks, to let your tank settle down. Remember when choosing how many fish you will have, that you have both the length, breadth and height of your tank for the fish to live in. Some types of fish live near the surface, some in the middle, and some on the substrate, so take this into account to make sure all the space in your tank is utilized.
Setting up your first aquarium
1) First, make sure your tank is clean and free from any foreign objects. Only clean it with water, as any chemicals may be harmful to your fish. Your tank will be best placed away from direct light (ie. a window), or draughts, (ie. next to a doorway). Excess sunlight can cause massive algal growth, and can also heat up the water by several degrees. In addition, being in a draught can cause temperature to fluctuate. So, now you have sited your tank, you can begin.
2) If you are going to use an under-gravel filter, now is the time to place it in the bottom of your tank, and then cover it with your chosen substrate, which should be rinsed thoroughly to remove any loose powder or silt which will make the water cloudy. If you are not using an under-gravel filter, you can just put the substrate into the bottom of the tank. Ideally you need about 2-3 inches depth.
3) Now you are ready to add your heater and your external or internal filter if you are not using the under-gravel method. These items usually hang in or out of your tank, or stick on with sucker pads. Make sure they are secure. Remember that any electrical components you attach should have a small drip loop in them to ensure any leaks do not run directly to the power socket.
4) Now you need to fill your tank with water. As I mentioned earlier, the quality of tap water can vary enormously, so it's good to test the water first. There are chemical products you can add to tap water to remove harmful chemicals, or you can use something called 'reverse osmosis' water. This is water that has all the nitrates and hard elements filtered out, so you can be sure you are not adding harmful chemicals to your tank at the outset. You can purchase reverse osmosis water from your local fish shop, or buy the unit and make your own at home. This is quite easy to do. Remember, if you're going to add anything else to the tank, such as plants or rocks, don't fill the tank too much to allow for displacement. Once this is done, you can add your thermometer. Try to place it so you can read it but it isn't in the centre of your view.
4) Now you can add the lighting lid to the top of your tank. When you do this, make sure it is securely positioned and your reflectors are placed for the best light inside the tank. A hood on your tank helps to keep the water cleaner and keep out dust, cigarette smoke etc which can affect the water quality.
Usually it is recommended that you let your tank settle for one or two weeks before you start to add fish. The benefit of this is that the new filtration isn't overloaded with waste. If this happens a water imbalance can quickly build up. However, if you've set up correctly, after a few days you should be able to add a few small fish. Adding fish a few at a time gives the entire tank time to adjust, and is also a good way to see how many fish you can have. I understand the patience required when waiting to add fish, but in the long run it is the best way to go. It's just a few days!
When you come to adding fish, you should always float the bag in the top of your tank for 15 - 30 minutes, to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank. During this time it is beneficial to open the bags as they are floating, and add tiny handfuls of water from the tank, so that the new fish are slowly acclimatized to the water in their new home. And there you have it! Your first aquarium, and it wasn't so hard! If you don't have a sump tank ( a secondary tank which cycles the water in and out of your main tank), then you need to change about 10% of the water in your tank every one or two weeks, to ensure the water stays clean and healthy. When you do this, remember to disconnect anything that is running inside your tank, such as pumps or heaters, because they are not designed to run outside of water.
When setting up any kind of aquarium, people always have questions about lighting, water quality, which fish to put together and how soon to add them to the tank and so on. There are some sites which will prove invaluable at this stage. If in doubt, it is always better to ask and get it right the first time, rather than deal with the consequences later. Please feel free to email me with any questions.
I recommend the following link:
